June 16-23 2004

Seaside Special
The coasts with the most
….. South Kent

On paper, the coastline of Romney Marsh on the East Sussex-Kent border does not sound like the makings of an ideal beach experience. First there is Rye, a quaint seaside town that lost its coastal location some centuries ago. Then there is Camber sands best known for nudists, caravan parks and Radio 1 road shows. And Dungeness, a collection of shacks strung out along a barren stony beach made famous by a garden made out of bits of rusty metal, and a bloody great power station.
Yet this a is a very special place indeed. The flat anti-landscape of Romney Marsh and the vast expanse of shingle that forms Dungeness Point make it one of the most eerily atmospheric parts of the country. For Londoners, openness and peacefulness on this scale is an incredible luxury. And the sky… wide, open, streaked with a whole day’s weather, stretches form horizon to horizon (not just rooftop to rooftop).

London money has arrived – look out for the black rubber house by Architect Simon Conder towards Dungeness lighthouse. The ‘beach’ itself is strewn with derelict shacks and carcasses of old boats that make the whole place feel like a giant sculpture park.
Further round towards the Rother Estuary, Camber Sands is a very different seaside experience – 2.5 mile-long soft, sandy beach has garnered a host of stylish fans, and a successful career as a film and fashion shoot location.
The main cultural centre for the area, and where you will find the most shops, restaurants and places to stay, is the historic town of Rye. Twee to the point of perfection, it’s a mixture of Norman, Georgian and Tudor architecture, with cobbled streets, antique shops, galleries, tea rooms and – the Sunday we went – Morris dancers. Rye Harbour is another haven for wildlife and a perfect spot for birdwatchers. Pick up a pint of cockles by the quay to nibble as you go.

Where to stay

…The Place
Being a traditional sought of seaside town, the traditional place to stay in Camber is a holiday park. But it’s finding favour with the fashion crowd these days, and its first boutique hotel, The Place opened earlier this year. You don’t have to be booked into its modern bedrooms to take advantage of the excellent brasserie that specialises in local fare.