Waitrose Magazine January 2004

If you dream of the beach:
...get windswept on the dunes of camber sands


The golden beaches of Camber Sands are deserted in winter and spring, leaving its dunes as a stunning hide-away for nature lovers and - well, simply lovers. The Place is easily the most stylish hotel in Camber, with classic neutral linens adorning crisply decorated spacious rooms. Locally born chef Dale Skinner is passionate about local organic produce, serving exquisite seasonal dishes in the brasserie. January is prime oyster season, with scallops and mussels joining local plaice and lemon sole on the menu. Spring lamb and beef are served with roast butternut squash, celeriac and sweet Savoy cabbage, while the hot chocolate brownie and the traditional bread and butter pudding deliver delicious comfort after a chilly country walk. Turn right out of The Place and you will quickly find yourself in Rye. This pretty harbour village is packed with antique stores, including Ann Lingard's unique culinary antiques shop on Rope Walk.

You'll find lots of supremely fresh fish at the harbour - go to Market Fisheries, a local father and son operation. Alternatively, turn left for Dungeness Point, a bleakly impressive jut of shale reminiscent of the Mad Max movies, with the power plant dwarfing the few other buildings. Artist and film-maker Derek Jarman lived here in Prospect Cottage, an ex-fisherman's hut, in his last years. He constructed the garden out of shingle, driftwood and the wild plants he found nearby. Now in private hands, it remains as a testament to the man's imagination. The rich garlic and fish aroma of near neighbours, The Smokery, soon brings thoughts back to less esoteric but tastier realms.